I am studying interior architecture and have to make a maquette with walls that look like concrete walls. I do use cardboard so can't apply wet substances on this. Does anyone have any tips with what I can make these "concrete walls" with.
Odd question. Obviously don’t use cardboard for this… That’s got kind of limited application in quality modeling anyway. If you’re going for realistic models It’s not great, if you’re going for abstract materiality, also not great.
Depending on the scale, you could actually pour some quikrete model walls. You could also use something on basswood, for best results you may need to experiment. You may be able to use a concrete or plaster material on it to get it to look right, or you may just add some grit into some acrylic paint honestly.
I'd add rockite into the mix. You can pour small scale features that are high-strength. I've tried using proper concrete for scale models and it usually turned out poorly unless it was a larger scale feature.
Dec 28, 23 1:59 pm ·
·
natematt
oh shoot. that's actually what i meant, not quickcrete. Though you can do quickcrete too, but it's harder to do. Rockite is what all the cool kids were doing back in my day.
There are posts in this forum going back 20 years on the topic of interior architecture, this is not new, you don’t need to throw your hands up to lambast some poor student about their degree name like it is some novelty that they are propagating. We get it, it’s interior design, everyone gets it. People don’t promote themselves as interior architects, it’s just the degree title. If you really care, take it up with the schools or the architecture boards. Or just add to the conversation by starting your own post to critique the naming etiquette of design degrees.
Non Sequitur, in the United States, the degrees are called Interior Architecture degrees because a lot of these degrees are offered in the same school as the Architecture degree programs. At the University of Oregon, it was called Interior Architecture.
Yes, it is the interior design profession they enter into because there is no professional title of Interior Architect in Oregon but that's the label of the degree, not the professional title. In Oregon, there isn't an actual state license for interior design of any kind.... not without any attempt. Given that the title 'architect' is regulated, there is no title legislated for 'interior architect' to allow a licensed interior design professional to use the title 'interior architect'.
The name of degrees has been a long time for decades and that's not within the scope of licensing boards to regulate the title of degrees... in the United States especially when there are no interior design licensure requirements in numerous states. Only some states regulate a title like certified interior designer or the like but mostly as a title law not as much the practice. Only a few go full out title/practice regulating of interior design but I am not sure off the top of my head if that is still even true. There has been some deregulation of interior design throughout various U.S. states. The name of the degree is irrelevant.
The OP was merely indicating he is a student in a degree with the words 'interior architecture' used in the name of the degree / academic major. Okay. Take a chill pill. That reduces the number of schools and programs by some amount but not clear how much.
So let's not get prickish about something STUDENTS DO NOT HAVE A VOICE IN THE NAME AND TITLE OF A DEGREE PROGRAM. They can make noise but they have practically zero standing for their voice to matter. No law says they even have to be listened to... only politics and optics. Then again why would a student give a shit about it?
At University of Oregon, degrees with the title of the degree major, "Interior Architecture", can be definitively traced back the the late 1950s when Margo Grant Walsh received her Bachelors of Interior Architecture in 1960. Yes, 1960. I would reason the major started to exist a short time earlier when the courses were offered and a degree curriculum established sometime from 1955 to 1960. I can't determine at this time if it goes back any earlier but that's a cursory examination on how long this has been the case just to give a little context here. I wouldn't get bent out of shape at this time until they represent themselves as interior Architects as a professional title. The capital A is just an emphasis added by me not that it matters from a legal point of view.
Patricia Bowers Horter back in 1945 when she got her B.S. in Interior Architecture. This was only 10 YEARS after Architecture Act changed from a Title Act to a Title & Practice Act in Oregon. So, after nearly a century, what's the motivation to change the title of the degree to Interior Design? Why? To appease one Canadian isn't going to be enough motivation.
Quick fucking around and buy some cement board. I might use two thin sheets together and glue it together if I want to hide any printing. Kind of depend. Close enough for a f---ing model. SOmetimes you can get samples and they might even be of sizes you can use, resize, and shape for your model.
If you need it to be a painted surface like painted cement or for that sand stucco finish texture, then just put a thin coating of sand on the sheet in a fairly even fashion (don't over think it... common sense level) and spray a coating of paint on it. Latex paint will do just fine. Thin maybe a finish coating... so it would look like the real thing done for the past 70+ years by contractors around the country..... lol.
There are multiple techniques to get a textured finish so by no means the above is the only way. There's one old technique using a sponge. To do it in a manner that has more of physical texture, you apply it in layered up fashion with a somewhat thick latex paint. Watercolor paint often is too thin for the feel but maybe fine for the look. The viscosity will help and latex is sufficient and can dry forming these textures that you can feel with your hand. This isn't new.
If an actual tactile texture is not that important in the model itself, then the following could work: (especially if you can represent that with samples separate of the model itself)
A thing you could do is print out a scaled concrete texture onto photo paper or whatever and adhere it to the cardboard if you use cardboard. It isn't something unreasonable to do if you are low on budget. If your model is to a scale as it should be, then you can do this by printing elevations with a texture. Then you cut them out. Do it cleanly and carefully. The same with the cardboard pieces. Consider that. It would be close enough. Just want to exercise diligence and care in making your model. The cutout elevations should be precisely the right size. This is where you should exercise the math involved carefully. I've done models in cardboard, foam core, and other stuff. I can do it in almost any material. It's just the time and money cost. I understand you are on a limited budget so I understand this is stuff that takes diligent care in doing the job right. I choose my model pieces with care so they are the right thickness to represent the walls, for example.
Over 20 years ago, I did a maquette for a remodel of a house garage for an Art Basic Design class. So, it's relevant. Before that, other models for classes. I've done a model for a landscape architecture course. It's not that unusual. I've done that before. With time and money and materials, I can do just about anything if I wanted to. We usually do things in digital form now than physical models in practice. However, a physical model could be made if that is desired of a client willing to pay for it.
STUDENT ASSIGNMENT PROJECT!!!! REMEMBER? This is a student in an interior architecture/interior design degree and an interior architecture/interior design course. This is not helpful advice to the student. Can we not give blatantly stupid advice that can't be useful or applied for the assignment for the particular class. Come on. I am not sure why the person should have came to this forum for interior design classes but I am not particularly familiar of dedicated interior design forums that deals with academic stuff. Anyway, just a point to be made here.
If the scale of the model is between 1/8" and 3/4" I would recommend using paint.
Get neutral grey spray paint for the background.
Then get a medium warm grey in an an acrylic paint. Add some water to the acrylic paint and rub a toothbrush in it. You'll want to really coat the bristles.
Then hold the toothbrush over the 'concrete wall' and rub the bristles with your thumb. This will cause small paint droplets to fly off and create a random stipple effect. The neutral grey spray paint background with some contrasting color from the toothbrush should create that subtle color blend and texture you get with finished concrete.
It's not a perfect process and will take some trial and error to get the acrylic paint to water ratio. It's also a bit messy however with bit of planning and masking it will be fine. It's a very cheap method that should only cost you around $20 for all the supplies.
A fairly decent idea, Chad. Of course, several ways to go about it. It can all be executed decently. This is why sometimes there is some joy in seeing how several people came about executing the same problem. It just comes to what you can do and getting it done.
Grey museum board works well especially if you lightly sand the surface intermittently. Much lighter than rockite, and quicker too. Possibly less expensive. Just wear gloves because it can smudge easily.
fake concrete walls
Hi
I am studying interior architecture and have to make a maquette with walls that look like concrete walls. I do use cardboard so can't apply wet substances on this. Does anyone have any tips with what I can make these "concrete walls" with.
Thanks in advance
vita
Odd question. Obviously don’t use cardboard for this… That’s got kind of limited application in quality modeling anyway. If you’re going for realistic models It’s not great, if you’re going for abstract materiality, also not great.
Depending on the scale, you could actually pour some quikrete model walls. You could also use something on basswood, for best results you may need to experiment. You may be able to use a concrete or plaster material on it to get it to look right, or you may just add some grit into some acrylic paint honestly.
I'd add rockite into the mix. You can pour small scale features that are high-strength. I've tried using proper concrete for scale models and it usually turned out poorly unless it was a larger scale feature.
oh shoot. that's actually what i meant, not quickcrete. Though you can do quickcrete too, but it's harder to do. Rockite is what all the cool kids were doing back in my day.
interior architecture? For Sean Connery s sake, just call it what it is.
For your wall, if you can’t use the real stuff, mix sand and glue together and apply it to plywood.
Don’t be a dick. Interior architecture has been a typical degree title for at least 15 years.
It is not. It’s a weak attempt at borrowing proper architecture for int des marketing. It’s note certainly not a recognized profession in my area.
There are posts in this forum going back 20 years on the topic of interior architecture, this is not new, you don’t need to throw your hands up to lambast some poor student about their degree name like it is some novelty that they are propagating. We get it, it’s interior design, everyone gets it. People don’t promote themselves as interior architects, it’s just the degree title. If you really care, take it up with the schools or the architecture boards. Or just add to the conversation by starting your own post to critique the naming etiquette of design degrees.
Non Sequitur, in the United States, the degrees are called Interior Architecture degrees because a lot of these degrees are offered in the same school as the Architecture degree programs. At the University of Oregon, it was called Interior Architecture.
Yes, it is the interior design profession they enter into because there is no professional title of Interior Architect in Oregon but that's the label of the degree, not the professional title. In Oregon, there isn't an actual state license for interior design of any kind.... not without any attempt. Given that the title 'architect' is regulated, there is no title legislated for 'interior architect' to allow a licensed interior design professional to use the title 'interior architect'.
The name of degrees has been a long time for decades and that's not within the scope of licensing boards to regulate the title of degrees... in the United States especially when there are no interior design licensure requirements in numerous states. Only some states regulate a title like certified interior designer or the like but mostly as a title law not as much the practice. Only a few go full out title/practice regulating of interior design but I am not sure off the top of my head if that is still even true. There has been some deregulation of interior design throughout various U.S. states. The name of the degree is irrelevant.
The OP was merely indicating he is a student in a degree with the words 'interior architecture' used in the name of the degree / academic major. Okay. Take a chill pill. That reduces the number of schools and programs by some amount but not clear how much.
So let's not get prickish about something STUDENTS DO NOT HAVE A VOICE IN THE NAME AND TITLE OF A DEGREE PROGRAM. They can make noise but they have practically zero standing for their voice to matter. No law says they even have to be listened to... only politics and optics. Then again why would a student give a shit about it?
At University of Oregon, degrees with the title of the degree major, "Interior Architecture", can be definitively traced back the the late 1950s when Margo Grant Walsh received her Bachelors of Interior Architecture in 1960. Yes, 1960. I would reason the major started to exist a short time earlier when the courses were offered and a degree curriculum established sometime from 1955 to 1960. I can't determine at this time if it goes back any earlier but that's a cursory examination on how long this has been the case just to give a little context here. I wouldn't get bent out of shape at this time until they represent themselves as interior Architects as a professional title. The capital A is just an emphasis added by me not that it matters from a legal point of view.
Citing my source by referencing a link:
https://design.uoregon.edu/mar...
To update: Actually, goes back even earlier... back to the 1940s, at least.
https://design.uoregon.edu/pat...
Patricia Bowers Horter back in 1945 when she got her B.S. in Interior Architecture. This was only 10 YEARS after Architecture Act changed from a Title Act to a Title & Practice Act in Oregon. So, after nearly a century, what's the motivation to change the title of the degree to Interior Design? Why? To appease one Canadian isn't going to be enough motivation.
vitavandenbergh,
Quick fucking around and buy some cement board. I might use two thin sheets together and glue it together if I want to hide any printing. Kind of depend. Close enough for a f---ing model. SOmetimes you can get samples and they might even be of sizes you can use, resize, and shape for your model.
If you need it to be a painted surface like painted cement or for that sand stucco finish texture, then just put a thin coating of sand on the sheet in a fairly even fashion (don't over think it... common sense level) and spray a coating of paint on it. Latex paint will do just fine. Thin maybe a finish coating... so it would look like the real thing done for the past 70+ years by contractors around the country..... lol.
There are multiple techniques to get a textured finish so by no means the above is the only way. There's one old technique using a sponge. To do it in a manner that has more of physical texture, you apply it in layered up fashion with a somewhat thick latex paint. Watercolor paint often is too thin for the feel but maybe fine for the look. The viscosity will help and latex is sufficient and can dry forming these textures that you can feel with your hand. This isn't new.
If an actual tactile texture is not that important in the model itself, then the following could work: (especially if you can represent that with samples separate of the model itself)
A thing you could do is print out a scaled concrete texture onto photo paper or whatever and adhere it to the cardboard if you use cardboard. It isn't something unreasonable to do if you are low on budget. If your model is to a scale as it should be, then you can do this by printing elevations with a texture. Then you cut them out. Do it cleanly and carefully. The same with the cardboard pieces. Consider that. It would be close enough. Just want to exercise diligence and care in making your model. The cutout elevations should be precisely the right size. This is where you should exercise the math involved carefully. I've done models in cardboard, foam core, and other stuff. I can do it in almost any material. It's just the time and money cost. I understand you are on a limited budget so I understand this is stuff that takes diligent care in doing the job right. I choose my model pieces with care so they are the right thickness to represent the walls, for example.
Over 20 years ago, I did a maquette for a remodel of a house garage for an Art Basic Design class. So, it's relevant. Before that, other models for classes. I've done a model for a landscape architecture course. It's not that unusual. I've done that before. With time and money and materials, I can do just about anything if I wanted to. We usually do things in digital form now than physical models in practice. However, a physical model could be made if that is desired of a client willing to pay for it.
screw the maquette. show you really care and build a real building.
STUDENT ASSIGNMENT PROJECT!!!! REMEMBER? This is a student in an interior architecture/interior design degree and an interior architecture/interior design course. This is not helpful advice to the student. Can we not give blatantly stupid advice that can't be useful or applied for the assignment for the particular class. Come on. I am not sure why the person should have came to this forum for interior design classes but I am not particularly familiar of dedicated interior design forums that deals with academic stuff. Anyway, just a point to be made here.
If the scale of the model is between 1/8" and 3/4" I would recommend using paint.
Get neutral grey spray paint for the background.
Then get a medium warm grey in an an acrylic paint. Add some water to the acrylic paint and rub a toothbrush in it. You'll want to really coat the bristles.
Then hold the toothbrush over the 'concrete wall' and rub the bristles with your thumb. This will cause small paint droplets to fly off and create a random stipple effect. The neutral grey spray paint background with some contrasting color from the toothbrush should create that subtle color blend and texture you get with finished concrete.
It's not a perfect process and will take some trial and error to get the acrylic paint to water ratio. It's also a bit messy however with bit of planning and masking it will be fine. It's a very cheap method that should only cost you around $20 for all the supplies.
Good Luck!
A fairly decent idea, Chad. Of course, several ways to go about it. It can all be executed decently. This is why sometimes there is some joy in seeing how several people came about executing the same problem. It just comes to what you can do and getting it done.
Into the idea of actually pouring something!
But also depending on the scale what about gray chip board?
That could work well.
Grey museum board works well especially if you lightly sand the surface intermittently. Much lighter than rockite, and quicker too. Possibly less expensive. Just wear gloves because it can smudge easily.
Nice idea! I wonder if you could 'seal' the sanded museum board with a matte fixative used on charcoal drawings?
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