I'm trying to identify resources such as books, periodicals, websites, etc. which features details for contemporary interior millwork. The examples of millwork detailing I'm looking for most are wall paneling and "slatted" wood construction. Most of the sources I've found do little to detail the millwork but instead just describe the makeup of the entire wall assembly. Below is a reference photo of millwork that serves as a precedent to the kind of detailing information I'm looking for. Does anyone have a go-to guide or resource for this sort of thing? Thanks for any and all help!
These are just slats toenailed to a black=-painted backer board on a standoff frame. Build the frames, then attach to base wall. Leave room for door hinges. Millwork would be cutting your slats to a desired length. Don't make them too deep or the pieces will get the weeby-wooblies over the years and break off.
Dec 19, 19 12:05 pm ·
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Chad Miller
To be fair threeohdoor, this is actually a rather complex construction to get things straight and look clean. I'd assume this is shop built, not site built.
Dec 19, 19 1:19 pm ·
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threeohdoor
But even shop-built, we're not talking about superfine joinery. I suppose you could run dados in the backboard, but that seems above and beyond. Before I paint myself into a tighter corner, I'll say that I've never spec'd something like this (ceilings are another matter, see senjohn below). Always looking for more ways to skin the cat though.
My first career was as a cabinetmaker and I've done a lot of shop drawings earlier in my design career. In my experience the architect defines the parameters and the millwork shop or contractor comes up with the details of how to get it done. Sometimes the architect will suggest details but I don't recall a single instance where they made sense vs. actual shop details.
As Chad Miller suggests above, there are generally two levels of quality: what can be done on site, and what can be done in a shop. Shop work typically has higher precision but also costs more.
Resources I would suggest looking at are Fine Homebuilding magazine and The Journal of Light Construction. They often publish stories with detailed drawings, including for trim and finish details. (I write for Fine Homebuilding but now focus on sustainable construction.)
Here's an example of something comparable that I designed and detailed. It could have been done easily with visible fasteners but we wanted a high level of precision and no visible fasteners, wood filler or plugs. The solution involves Richlite splines milled with a custom pattern.
Dec 19, 19 1:44 pm ·
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Chad Miller
Did you do a T&G type joint to hide the fasteners? Looks nice!
Dec 19, 19 1:55 pm ·
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threeohdoor
Looks wonderful. The Richlite joins the wood slats (I assume), what element connects back to the base wall?
Dec 19, 19 2:12 pm ·
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Wood Guy
Thank you. The walnut boards have grooves in the edges plus a rabbet on the back on one side. The Richlite is milled with a "T" shape. We worked out the dimensions such that the Richlite splines are screwed to the wall, then the walnut slips over the splines and hides the fasteners. It was difficult because neither the wall or the walnut were perfectly flat, so every pre-finished board had to be massaged into place. (The boards have a true hand-rubbed oil finish.)
Dec 19, 19 3:41 pm ·
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threeohdoor
Very cool. I'm not sure where this project is located, but did you have any problems with the walnut expanding/contracting over the seasons? Did you leave a reveal at either end? I'm assuming richlite is static.
Dec 19, 19 4:43 pm ·
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Chad Miller
Hot damn that's cool. Nice work Wood Guy!
Dec 19, 19 5:15 pm ·
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Wood Guy
threeohdoor, it's on the Maine coast, which has wider humidity swings than most places--wood moisture content is around 6% in winter and 14% in summer, unless A/C is used. I use formulas in this book to determine how much movement to plan for: https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588/, which varies with species, grain and season.
I have not heard of any issues with this wall, and it's been up for 5-6 years now. The entire perimeter has a half-spline so there is a clean, consistent margin.
Richlite is made of layers of kraft paper and phenolic resin, just like plastic laminate countertops, but without the clear melamine layer on top. It does not move enough with either temperature or humidity to worry about.
Thanks Chad! I didn't mean to take over the thread, which I think is a good topic, and I'm interested in others' experiences.
Dec 20, 19 9:49 am ·
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threeohdoor
Honestly, I really appreciate the willingness to share a part of a project. I've gotten my license but am still early in my career - having these sorts of discussions is why archinect can be so neat.
For those seeking detailed resources on contemporary millwork, especially focusing on intricate aspects like wall paneling and "slatted" wood construction, Millwork Estimating Services offers a streamlined solution. These services specialize in providing comprehensive insights tailored to your project needs drawing from extensive experience and specialized knowledge in the field. By partnering with such services you gain access to a wealth of expertise and resources ensuring the success and precision of your millwork projects.
Apr 6, 24 2:07 am ·
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Contemporary Millwork Details
I'm trying to identify resources such as books, periodicals, websites, etc. which features details for contemporary interior millwork. The examples of millwork detailing I'm looking for most are wall paneling and "slatted" wood construction. Most of the sources I've found do little to detail the millwork but instead just describe the makeup of the entire wall assembly. Below is a reference photo of millwork that serves as a precedent to the kind of detailing information I'm looking for. Does anyone have a go-to guide or resource for this sort of thing? Thanks for any and all help!
These are just slats toenailed to a black=-painted backer board on a standoff frame. Build the frames, then attach to base wall. Leave room for door hinges. Millwork would be cutting your slats to a desired length. Don't make them too deep or the pieces will get the weeby-wooblies over the years and break off.
To be fair threeohdoor, this is actually a rather complex construction to get things straight and look clean. I'd assume this is shop built, not site built.
But even shop-built, we're not talking about superfine joinery. I suppose you could run dados in the backboard, but that seems above and beyond. Before I paint myself into a tighter corner, I'll say that I've never spec'd something like this (ceilings are another matter, see senjohn below). Always looking for more ways to skin the cat though.
Your regular finishes manufacturers have products of this sort too. Armstrong has a ceilings line.
https://www.armstrongceilings.com/commercial/en-us/commercial-ceilings-walls/wood-ceilings.html#bbbh=%7B%22selectedItem%22%3A%7B%22name%22%3A%22browse%22%2C%22itemIndex%22%3Anull%7D%7D
My first career was as a cabinetmaker and I've done a lot of shop drawings earlier in my design career. In my experience the architect defines the parameters and the millwork shop or contractor comes up with the details of how to get it done. Sometimes the architect will suggest details but I don't recall a single instance where they made sense vs. actual shop details.
As Chad Miller suggests above, there are generally two levels of quality: what can be done on site, and what can be done in a shop. Shop work typically has higher precision but also costs more.
Resources I would suggest looking at are Fine Homebuilding magazine and The Journal of Light Construction. They often publish stories with detailed drawings, including for trim and finish details. (I write for Fine Homebuilding but now focus on sustainable construction.)
Here's an example of something comparable that I designed and detailed. It could have been done easily with visible fasteners but we wanted a high level of precision and no visible fasteners, wood filler or plugs. The solution involves Richlite splines milled with a custom pattern.
Did you do a T&G type joint to hide the fasteners? Looks nice!
Looks wonderful. The Richlite joins the wood slats (I assume), what element connects back to the base wall?
Thank you. The walnut boards have grooves in the edges plus a rabbet on the back on one side. The Richlite is milled with a "T" shape. We worked out the dimensions such that the Richlite splines are screwed to the wall, then the walnut slips over the splines and hides the fasteners. It was difficult because neither the wall or the walnut were perfectly flat, so every pre-finished board had to be massaged into place. (The boards have a true hand-rubbed oil finish.)
Very cool. I'm not sure where this project is located, but did you have any problems with the walnut expanding/contracting over the seasons? Did you leave a reveal at either end? I'm assuming richlite is static.
Hot damn that's cool. Nice work Wood Guy!
threeohdoor, it's on the Maine coast, which has wider humidity swings than most places--wood moisture content is around 6% in winter and 14% in summer, unless A/C is used. I use formulas in this book to determine how much movement to plan for: https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588/, which varies with species, grain and season.
I have not heard of any issues with this wall, and it's been up for 5-6 years now. The entire perimeter has a half-spline so there is a clean, consistent margin.
Richlite is made of layers of kraft paper and phenolic resin, just like plastic laminate countertops, but without the clear melamine layer on top. It does not move enough with either temperature or humidity to worry about.
Thanks Chad! I didn't mean to take over the thread, which I think is a good topic, and I'm interested in others' experiences.
Honestly, I really appreciate the willingness to share a part of a project. I've gotten my license but am still early in my career - having these sorts of discussions is why archinect can be so neat.
RE: "there are generally two levels of quality"
be aware of subs that call themselves "cabinetmakers" but basically just bought expensive software that produces 3d images & drives material cut lists
they think they are doing high end custom work when really they don't understand traditional cabinet construction or the purpose of a shop drawing
you might hear them say things like:
For those seeking detailed resources on contemporary millwork, especially focusing on intricate aspects like wall paneling and "slatted" wood construction, Millwork Estimating Services offers a streamlined solution. These services specialize in providing comprehensive insights tailored to your project needs drawing from extensive experience and specialized knowledge in the field. By partnering with such services you gain access to a wealth of expertise and resources ensuring the success and precision of your millwork projects.
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